Want to know how to keep 4c hair moisturized for more than a day? It comes down to three things: put water in, seal it with an oil, and protect it at night. This guide shows you how, step by step, using the LOC method.
We make Ude Aki black palm kernel oil, and the feedback we hear most from customers is about moisture. They tell us it leaves their hair soft and moisturized. So here is how to get the most out of it on dry 4c hair.
Dry 4c hair: why is my 4c hair so dry?
Dry 4c hair is common, and it is not your fault. A few things work against it:
- The coils. 4c hair has many tight bends. The natural oil from your scalp has a hard time travelling down to the ends, so the ends dry out first.
- Water leaves. Moisture you put in today slowly evaporates, faster in dry air, wind and indoor heating.
- Friction. Cotton pillowcases, hats and scarves rub against the hair and pull moisture out.
- Order of products. Oil on dry hair just sits on top. Oil works best on hair that already has water in it.
The fix for dry 4c hair is the routine below: water in, oil to seal, protect at night.
How to keep 4c hair moisturized: the short answer
- Water first. Water is what actually moisturizes hair. Use plain water or a water based leave in.
- Seal it in. An oil or balm holds that water in the strand so it does not escape as fast.
- Protect it. Twist or braid, then sleep on satin or in a satin bonnet.
Everything below is a more detailed version of those three steps.
The LOC method, step by step
LOC stands for Liquid, Oil, Cream. It is the most popular way to moisturize 4c hair, and it is where Ude Aki fits.
- Liquid. Start with clean, damp hair, or mist dry hair with water until it is damp. Add a water based leave in conditioner if you use one.
- Oil. Scoop a pea sized amount of Ude Aki per section. Rub it between your palms for a few seconds until it melts. Smooth it from the lengths down to the ends.
- Cream. Finish with your usual cream or butter to soften the hair and help hold your style.
Work in four to eight sections. 4c hair takes product better in small sections than all at once.
How much? Less than you think. If your hair feels greasy or looks coated, use less next time. Ude Aki is a rich balm and a little goes a long way.
LOC or LCO: which one is better?
LCO is the same steps in a different order: Liquid, Cream, Oil. The oil goes on last, over the cream.
- LOC suits many people with dense, coily hair that drinks up product.
- LCO is often preferred by people whose hair feels weighed down, or whose hair is low porosity.
There is no single right answer. Try each one for a week and keep the one that leaves your hair softer for longer.
How often should 4c hair be moisturized?
Most people do the full LOC or LCO routine on wash day, then refresh every two to three days. A refresh is simple: mist with water and seal the ends with a little Ude Aki.
That is the simplest way to keep 4c hair moisturized between washes. If your hair still feels dry the next day, refresh more often. If it feels heavy or limp, refresh less.
On wash day, the American Academy of Dermatology suggests using conditioner every time you wash, and a hot oil treatment twice a month. To use Ude Aki that way, warm a little more than usual, work it through dry hair before you shampoo, leave it for about thirty minutes, then wash and condition as normal.
How do I tell if my 4c hair is moisturized?
- It feels soft and bends easily between your fingers.
- The ends feel smooth, not rough or crunchy.
- It stretches a little and springs back.
Dry hair feels rough, looks dull and snaps easily. If that sounds like your ends, start with water and seal again.
Should 4c hair be oiled every day?
Usually no. Oil is not moisture. It holds moisture in. Oiling dry hair every day without water can lead to build up and hair that feels greasy and dry at the same time.
Put water in first, then seal. On most days, a little on the ends is enough.
How to moisturize low porosity 4c hair
Low porosity hair takes in water slowly, so products can sit on top. These help:
- Always melt Ude Aki in your hands before it touches your hair.
- Apply it to damp hair, never dry hair.
- Use a small amount. Try the LCO order.
- Cover your hair with a warm towel or shower cap for a few minutes after applying.
How to moisturize locs
Locs need moisture too, but too much oil can leave them heavy. Mist your locs with water, then warm a very small amount of Ude Aki and massage it into the scalp between your locs. Squeeze what is left on your hands lightly down the length. For more, see Ude Aki for hair: how to use it on 4c hair, locs and scalp.
Why Ude Aki works for sealing in moisture
Ude Aki is black palm kernel oil, made from the kernel of the African oil palm. One ingredient, nothing else. The kernels are cracked, roasted over firewood in Nigeria and sieved. It is not refined, bleached or deodorised.
- It moisturizes, softens and conditions. As the oil step in LOC, it seals in the water you put in.
- It is a traditional West African oil. There it is used for strong hair.
- It melts on contact. Solid when cool, it turns to oil in your palms, so it spreads thin over 4c hair.
What to expect the first time:
- Smell: strong, smoky and nutty. That is the real thing. It fades after a few minutes.
- Colour: deep caramel to rich brown. Keep it off light coloured pillowcases until it has absorbed.
- Texture: grainy is normal. Warm it to smooth it.
- Solid or liquid: both are normal. Whatever the weather did in transit decides which one lands on your doorstep. If it arrives solid, warm it in your hands for a few seconds.
Patch test on a small area before first use and stop if irritation occurs. Avoid contact with eyes. It is for external use only. Keep out of reach of children.
How to keep 4c hair moisturized overnight
- Put your hair in loose twists or braids before bed.
- Sleep in a satin bonnet or on a satin pillowcase.
- In the morning, mist lightly with water if needed, and seal the ends with a little Ude Aki.
Questions people ask
Why does my 4c hair feel dry right after I moisturize it? Usually the order is off, or there is build up. Make sure water goes on first and oil goes on damp hair. If products have been piling up, a clarifying wash can help them work again.
Can batana oil be used on dry hair? Yes, batana oil is used to moisturize hair. Ude Aki is its African cousin, made the same way from the kernel of a related palm. Read African batana oil: what it is and what it is really called and batana oil vs black palm kernel oil.
What naturally softens 4c hair? Water, a good conditioner, and an oil or butter to seal. Ude Aki is one ingredient, so it fits a simple routine.
Can I use Ude Aki on my skin too? Yes. See how to use black palm kernel oil on hair, scalp and skin.
What does Ude Aki mean? Ude aki is Igbo for palm kernel oil. More in Ude aki in English.
Five more habits that help 4c hair hold moisture
- Water first. Moisture means water. Use a water-based leave-in conditioner or spray before any oil or butter.
- Deep condition on a schedule. A regular deep conditioning treatment keeps the hair soft and easier to detangle.
- Pre-poo before you shampoo. Coat the hair with conditioner or a little oil before washing, so shampoo does not strip it as much.
- Use protective styles. Twists and braids let you moisturize each section properly and keep the ends tucked away.
- Cover it at night. A satin bonnet or a satin pillowcase stops cotton from pulling moisture out while you sleep.
Then seal. A small amount of Ude Aki black palm kernel oil or shea butter over a water-based leave-in helps seal in moisture.
Not sure which oil to pick? See our guide to the best oil for 4c hair.
Where to get Ude Aki
JEB FOODS Ude Aki Black Palm Kernel Oil, 4 oz is one ingredient and nothing else, roasted over firewood in Nigeria and packed in the USA. Scan the QR code on the lid, or visit jebfoods.com/real, to check your jar is real.
Part of the profit funds our nonprofit organization, Save All Africa Kids (saak.org).