Looking for the best oil for 4c hair? Here is the short answer. 4c hair needs water for moisture, and then an oil that is rich enough to seal that water in. A thin oil adds shine. A rich oil or balm holds the moisture in place for longer.
At JEB FOODS our pick is Ude Aki, a black palm kernel oil from Nigeria. Below is how to choose a hair oil for 4c hair, how the common oils compare, and how to use one.
Oil is not moisture
This is the part most people miss. Water is the moisture. Oil does not add water to hair. Its job is to sit on top and seal in the water you put in first.
That is why oil on dry 4c hair often feels like it does nothing. Put water or a water based leave-in on first, then seal it with oil. For the full routine, see how to keep 4c hair moisturized with the LOC method.
What makes a good hair oil for 4c hair?
- Rich enough to seal. Tight coils let moisture out fast. A thicker oil or balm holds it in longer than a thin one.
- Spreads thin. A little should cover a whole section without leaving hair greasy.
- Short ingredient list. Read the label. The fewer ingredients, the easier it is to know what you are putting on your hair.
- Unrefined if you can get it. Unrefined oils keep their natural colour and scent.
- A feel you like. You will only use an oil you enjoy using.
Best oils for 4c hair: how the common ones compare
These are the oils people with 4c hair name most often. The biggest difference between them is how thick they are.
| Oil | Texture | Best used for |
|---|---|---|
| Ude Aki (black palm kernel oil) | Solid balm when cool, melts on contact with skin | Sealing in moisture, twists and braids |
| Castor oil | Very thick and sticky | Sealing ends, often mixed with a lighter oil |
| Shea butter | Solid butter | Sealing, twist-outs |
| Coconut oil | Solid when cool, melts when warm | Pre-wash oiling |
| Olive oil | Medium liquid | Hot oil treatments |
| Jojoba oil | Thin liquid | Light shine, scalp |
| Grapeseed oil | Thin liquid | Light shine |
If your 4c hair dries out by the next day, a thin oil on its own is usually not enough. Try a richer one.
Why Ude Aki is our pick for 4c hair
Ude Aki is black palm kernel oil, made from the kernel of the African oil palm. The kernels are cracked, cooked over firewood in Nigeria and sieved. One ingredient, nothing else. It is not refined, bleached or deodorised.
- It seals in moisture. Used after water or a leave-in, it holds the moisture in.
- It moisturizes, softens and conditions. Customers tell us it leaves their hair soft.
- It melts on contact. Solid when cool, it turns to oil in your palms, so a little goes a long way.
- It is a traditional West African oil. There it has long been used for strong hair.
Palm kernel oil has been reviewed by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel, which concluded it is safe as used in cosmetics.
It is also known as Adin Dudu in Yoruba and Manyanga in Central Africa. More on this in Ude Aki for hair.
How to use hair oil on 4c hair
- Start with damp hair. Mist with water or apply a water based leave-in.
- Warm a little oil. Rub a fingertip of Ude Aki between your palms until it melts.
- Work in sections. Smooth it from the middle of each section to the ends. The ends are the oldest and driest part.
- Style. Twist, braid or stretch while the hair is still damp, so the oil seals the water in.
- Top up as needed. Most people with 4c hair reseal every two to three days. Watch how your hair feels.
For more ways to use it, read how to use black palm kernel oil.
Scalp oil for a dry scalp
If your scalp feels dry, part your hair into sections. Warm a very small amount of Ude Aki and massage it into the scalp with your fingertips. A little is plenty. Too much can leave the roots heavy.
Patch test on a small area before first use and stop if irritation occurs. Do not use on broken skin.
What to expect the first time
- Smell: strong, smoky and nutty. That is the real thing. It fades after a few minutes.
- Colour: deep caramel to rich brown, darker or lighter by batch.
- Texture: grainy is normal. Warm it to smooth it.
- Solid or liquid: both are normal. Whatever the weather did in transit decides which one lands on your doorstep. If it arrives solid, warm it in your hands for a few seconds.
Questions people ask
What is the best oil for 4c hair?
The best oil for 4c hair is one rich enough to seal in moisture after water or a leave-in. Thick oils and balms do this better than thin oils. Our pick is Ude Aki black palm kernel oil.
Is oil good for 4c hair?
Yes, as a sealer. Oil does not add moisture on its own. Put water or a leave-in on first, then seal it with oil.
Should I oil my 4c hair every day?
Usually not. Most people reseal every two to three days. See how often to moisturize 4c hair.
Is black palm kernel oil the same as batana oil?
Same family, different home, same job. Batana oil comes from the kernel of the American oil palm, Elaeis oleifera, native to Central and South America and traditionally made in Honduras. Ude Aki comes from the kernel of the African oil palm, Elaeis guineensis, native to tropical Africa. One process, two continents. Read batana oil vs black palm kernel oil.
Can I use Ude Aki on my skin too?
Yes. It moisturizes and softens skin. For external use only, and keep it away from your eyes.
Where to get Ude Aki
JEB FOODS Ude Aki Black Palm Kernel Oil, 4 oz is one ingredient and nothing else, cooked over firewood in Nigeria and packed in the USA. Scan the QR code on the lid, or visit jebfoods.com/real, to check your jar is real.
Part of the profit funds our nonprofit organization, Save All Africa Kids (saak.org).
Sources
- Burnett CL, et al. Safety Assessment of Plant-Derived Fatty Acid Oils. International Journal of Toxicology, 2017.
- Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew. Elaeis guineensis, African oil palm. Plants of the World Online.
- Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew. Elaeis oleifera, American oil palm. Plants of the World Online.