A hot oil treatment for natural hair is simple: warm oil, worked through your hair before you wash it, left on for a while, then shampooed out. A pre-poo is the same idea, done before shampoo, with the oil warm or not. Both leave natural hair feeling soft after wash day.
At JEB FOODS we make Ude Aki, a black palm kernel oil from Nigeria and the African cousin of batana oil. Here is how to do both with it, step by step.
Hot oil treatment vs pre-poo: what is the difference?
| Hot oil treatment | Pre-poo | |
|---|---|---|
| What it is | Warmed oil applied before washing | Any oil or conditioner applied before shampoo |
| Oil temperature | Warm | Warm or room temperature |
| How long | 20 to 30 minutes | 30 minutes up to overnight |
| When | Wash day | Wash day, or the night before |
So a hot oil treatment is really a warm pre-poo. You can do either with the same jar.
How to do a hot oil treatment on natural hair
- Warm the oil gently. Close the jar and stand it in a bowl of warm water for a few minutes. Do not microwave it.
- Test the temperature. Put a drop on the inside of your wrist. It should feel warm, never hot.
- Section your hair. Four to six sections make it easier on thick or coily hair.
- Apply from ends to roots. Work the oil through each section, starting with the ends, which are the driest part.
- Cover it. Put on a plastic cap. For more warmth, wrap a warm towel over the cap.
- Wait 20 to 30 minutes.
- Shampoo and condition. Apply shampoo to the oiled hair before adding water, then lather and rinse. Follow with conditioner.
How to pre-poo natural hair
- Start with dry or slightly damp hair.
- Warm a little Ude Aki in your palms until it melts. Grainy is normal.
- Coat each section from the middle of the hair to the ends.
- Twist or braid loosely so it stays neat.
- Cover with a cap or satin bonnet and leave it on for at least 30 minutes, or overnight.
- Shampoo as usual.
Overnight? The oil is deep caramel to rich brown, so a bonnet keeps it off light coloured pillowcases.
What is the best pre-poo oil?
A good pre-poo oil is rich enough to coat the hair, so it feels soft after shampoo. Thin oils tend to rinse away quickly. Thicker oils and balms stay put.
Our pick is Ude Aki. It is one ingredient, black palm kernel oil, cracked, cooked over firewood in Nigeria and sieved. It is solid when cool and melts on contact, so it spreads easily once warm. It moisturizes, softens and conditions, and in West Africa it has long been used for strong hair.
Palm kernel oil has been reviewed by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel, which concluded it is safe as used in cosmetics.
See how it compares with other oils in the best oil for 4c hair.
How often should you do a hot oil treatment?
- Once a week works for most natural hair, on wash day.
- Every two weeks is fine if your hair feels soft and moisturized already.
- Between washes, use a small amount as a sealer instead. See how to keep 4c hair moisturized.
Tips for the best results
- Use enough. A pre-poo needs more oil than a daily sealer. Every strand should feel coated.
- Do not skip the cap. It holds in warmth and keeps the oil on your hair, not your clothes.
- Shampoo onto dry, oiled hair first. Water first makes oil harder to wash out.
- Patch test before first use and stop if irritation occurs. Avoid contact with eyes.
Questions people ask
Can I use batana oil for a hot oil treatment?
Yes. Honduran or African batana oil both work. The European cosmetic ingredient database lists batana oil as a hair conditioning ingredient. Ude Aki is the African cousin of batana oil, and it is used the same way. Read how to use batana oil on hair.
Can I leave a hot oil treatment in overnight?
Yes. At that point it is an overnight pre-poo. Cover your hair and shampoo in the morning.
Should a hot oil treatment go on wet or dry hair?
Either. Dry hair is easier to section. Slightly damp hair lets the oil spread further.
Does the oil need to be hot?
No. Warm is enough, and it must never be hot enough to burn. Test it on your wrist first.
Where to get Ude Aki
JEB FOODS Ude Aki Black Palm Kernel Oil, 4 oz is one ingredient and nothing else, cooked over firewood in Nigeria and packed in the USA. Scan the QR code on the lid, or visit jebfoods.com/real, to check your jar is real.
Part of the profit funds our nonprofit organization, Save All Africa Kids (saak.org).
Sources
- Cosmetics Europe, COSMILE Europe. Elaeis Guineensis Kernel Oil.
- Cosmetics Europe, COSMILE Europe. Elaeis Oleifera Kernel Oil.
- Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew. Elaeis guineensis, African oil palm. Plants of the World Online.
- Burnett CL, et al. Safety Assessment of Plant-Derived Fatty Acid Oils. International Journal of Toxicology, 2017.